Water Filter FAQs

Water Filter FAQs and water softener FAQs too. Below you will find answers to common questions we hear on a regular basis about water softeners and water filtration systems. Keep in mind we custom make everything we sell with only the finest American Made components. It is made for exactly the kind of water you have. Check out these water filter FAQs below.

frequently asked questions faqs-water filter faqs

The most common three questions we hear are as follows:

I have a private well that has some problems. How do I fix it?

ANSWER: In order to help you properly, please read items #7, #16 and #17 below on this page. Don't worry, most problem wells are easy and inexpensive to fix.

I am on a city water system and have really hard water. How do I fix it?

ANSWER: You can find information on how to size a water softener and how much they cost on this page: Water Softener prices and sizing

I just want to purify my drinking water ONLY. What do I do?

ANSWER: If all you want to do is have pure drinking water in your kitchen to remove bad tastes, chemicals and smells. Just buy the very first filter listed on the following page. It removes just about everything you can imagine: Purified Drinking Water

Questions? Call 800-684-0979 for assistance.

E-mail: info@waterfiltersofamerica.com

Here are a number of other Water Filter FAQs we are asked:

1. How do I reach Tech Support?

2. Do I have to use a carbon tank with well water chlorination systems?

3. I tested our well water and found it to have.......(sulfur smell)

4. Do I need to install the equipment myself?

5. I had a company come out and test my water....

6. If I get a full home water filtration system and it removes lead, why do I need a sink system?

7. How do I determine my FLOW RATE?

8. What is the difference between a "Deluxe" model a "Standard" model, and the "Premium" models?

9. UV LIGHT Sterilization: How do I know when it is correct to use one?

10. How simple is a reverse osmosis unit to install?

11. I just installed a full house backwashing carbon......

12. How does a person sign up to become an installer in a given town or city?

Questions? Call 800-684-0979 for assistance.

13. Sulfur: Should I remove the anode in my hot water heater?

14. How does a water softener work?

15. Do you have salt free water softeners?

16. How do I get my water tested? Is there anyone who does their water testing for free?

17. How do I do the Iron Bacteria and Organics inspections?

18. Where do you install the chemical feeder pumps that inject chlorine for sulfur smells or soda ash to raise your pH?

19. We noticed you changed your Pyrolox Iron Filters to Terminox™. Why is that?

20. Do magnetic water softeners work?

21. Who makes your equipment?

22. Can I drink the water from my softener?

23. What if i need to install my unit outside?

Water Filter FAQS: Q's and A's:

(1) Q: How do I reach Tech Support?

A: This is the most important question on our FAQs page. Call the tech support hotline number at 412-828-6003. This phone is usually answered 24 hours per day, seven days per week. If you are a current customer with a support issue, just tell them you need customer assistance and they can generally get you in touch with an advisor. You can go to this page for more information: Contact US.

CARBON for Well Water Filter FAQs

(2) Q: Do I have to use a carbon tank with well water chlorination systems?

A: The simple answer is No. Our Terminox® iron, sulfur and manganese filter also removes chlorine without the replacement needs of carbon. We only use carbon in extreme cases. Generally where you do not have enough flow rate to use the superior Terminox® filter. So you can determine how much is coming through into your home.

Sometimes if you are chlorinating heavily for harmful bacteria, you may need a little more chlorine removal capability. But normally a Terminox® works great. And there is no costly carbon replacement costs every few years. Chlorine readings of 0.5 to 1.0 PPM (lowest acceptable on a swimming pool tester) or slightly higher is fine for household use. And that is a very common amount with city water. But levels in excess of 2.5-3.0 PPM tell you that a reduction in chlorine is necessary.

Chlorine Levels in City Water

And it's also very common to find 1.0-3.0 PPM of chlorine in city water municipal water supplies. If you are using O.T.O. (most common swimming pool test chemical), orange readings are TOO HIGH. The yellow cap (or lid) on the bottle of O.T.O. is a good rule of thumb as a maximum.

Also, you can remove excessive levels of chlorine in your drinking water with a carbon filter at the kitchen sink or a 5 stage reverse osmosis system. Feel free to call one of our techs to help you evaluate your individual situation. The call is free and they are not allowed to ask you to buy anything, EVER. Remember for Terminox® sizing you need to answer #7, #16 and #17 on this water filter FAQs page.

CHLORINE and SULFUR FAQs

(3) Q: I tested our well water and found it to have a sulfur smell

Subject: Sulfur smell

From Norman: I tested our well water and found it has almost no iron, is soft. And it has ph of 8.5. Would your system that feeds chlorine into the household water system as the water is delivered suffice to eliminate the strong sulfur smell? Also, would an under sink filter work to eliminate the chlorine taste?

Answer:

Yes is the answer to both questions Norman. The chlorine is neutralized by the sulfur gas so there is no "measurable" chlorine at the kitchen sink. The gas is neutralized by the chlorine so you don't smell that. Sulfur bacteria, which causes the gas by eating the sulfates, is killed so that no more gas is created in your water lines. The sulfates can be removed with a Reverse Osmosis for drinking if you want to drink the water.

If your water is soft because of a water softener, a Reverse Osmosis unit is usually recommended for drinking water anyway. The Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System should also remove residual chlorine, if any, from the water. Of course, a simple carbon drinking water filter would remove residual chlorine as well. When you are using the chlorine to remove sulfur with a chemical feeder. All you are trying to do is get rid of that awful smell. It does not actually clean the water. If you have iron or manganese in your water as well, this is not the correct method normally.

INSTALL FAQs

(4) Q: Do I need to install the equipment myself?

A: Our equipment is VERY DIY friendly. You can install the equipment yourself if you are handy at all. Or you can hire someone if you do not feel comfortable doing so. We can even suggest a licensed plumber in your area. It really depends on the equipment and how handy you are. It's so easy to install. And so inexpensive that most people do it themselves. Or have a handy friend help them.

And our friendly staff is here to answer any questions you may have along the way. Or you can have a licensed plumber do it. And still save a bundle over what local water treatment companies cost. All equipment comes with an Easy Install instruction website for all your install questions. And most local water treatment dealers do not use licensed plumbers anyway! They hire people off the street. If necessary, let our representatives help you find someone in your area to help with installation. Just give us a call:

1-800-684-0979

IN HOME SALES COMPANY FAQS

(5) Q: I had a company come out and test my water.

They said I need to spend over $5000 for water equipment to clean up my city water. Does your equipment do the same thing? They say if I don't buy now. I won't get as good a deal later. And I will lose money. I feel really pressured to buy.

A: (also see: Compare Brands) Yes, our equipment can provide the same quality of water. And usually a much BETTER quality of water. And we do it at a fraction of the cost! Our FULL HOUSE WATER FILTRATION SYSTEMS sell for hundreds, not thousands! Most water treatment equipment is similar. Only the high pressure sales pitches vary. When they say you must "buy tonight or lose a great deal". Warning sirens should go off in your brain.

It is a common sales tactic to pressure you. Keep in mind that FEDERAL Law says you have three WORKING days to change your mind on products sold to you while someone visited your home. Some state laws give you 4 days to cancel. And it is NO QUESTIONS ASKED. You don't need a reason to cancel. Even if they have already installed it. Just tell them to "take it out, and give you a refund". It is the law. And they are REQUIRED to disclose this to you. If they don't have you sign that they told you about it, you can file a complaint with your local State Attorney General (it is free).

Think about it-Sleep on it

And remember "NEVER BUY ON THE FIRST NIGHT FOR ANY REASON"! What would your mother tell you? Think about it. Sleep on it. And "compare". And NEVER let anyone PRESSURE you out of your hard earned cash.

Some companies entice you with soap products designed to save you thousands, in order to get you to buy on the first visit. But everyone goes back to their favorite products after the sales pitch wears off. In most cases you can get those same soaps, from the same companies they use, for under $100 (even though those slick willy companies tell you they are worth THOUSANDS of dollars).

LEAD FAQS

(6) Q:If I get a full home water filtration system. And it removes lead. Why do I need a sink system?

A: So you clean it again after it runs through your pipes. Especially if your home was built BEFORE 1987. Lead solder was not outlawed until 1987.

Also, sink filters like reverse osmosis can take out substances that a water softener can't. Reverse osmosis sink filters remove the sodium that water softeners leave behind. It also removes chlorine, chemicals, heavy metals, pesticides, fertilizers, THMs, dissolved solids, lead, arsenic and much more.

FLOW RATE FAQs

(7) Q: How do I determine my FLOW RATE?

This is the single most important factor in determining what you need to do to get the right filter for a private well. That is why we have put it in our water filter FAQs. It is essential in most cases.

A: To determine your flow rate please follow these simple steps.

Open the NEAREST faucet or tap AFTER the pressure tank (But NOT the one ON the pressure tank), and let the water run until the well pump turns on. Immediately turn off the tap and count how many seconds the well pump runs from the time it came on until it shuts off, then write down the number of seconds the pump ran.

Now get a container you can measure water in, such as an empty gallon milk container. Open the tap or faucet and fill the container. Then close the tap and dump the water down the drain. Fill the container again, and then pour it out again. Continue doing this and counting each gallon until the pump starts again.

Once the pump starts, shut off the tap and stop drawing water. Write down the number of gallons you counted until the pump started. If there are any partial gallons left over count those as well. Such as a total of 1.5 gallons, or 4.25 gallons. You now have the information to calculate the well pump flow rate. Just give one of our techs a call and tell him how many seconds you calculated on the first step. And then tell him how many gallons you were able to draw after that. And that is it.

The Water Tech Will Have The Answers

He will then be able to tell you exactly what the flow rate is and which size filter you need. This information is essential to properly size any backwashing filter (such as iron filters and water softeners) or other flow rate dependent items such as Ultra Violet (UV) systems. You should always know your flow rate on ANY private well.

For example: The well pump ran for 30 seconds. And then you were able to draw 5.5 gallons before the pumps started again. That means you have 11 GPM flow rate.

Things to remember when doing a flow rate check:

*DO NOT use a water hose when checking flow rates. It may be necessary have someone listen for the pump to turn on while you draw water.

*If you can't hear the pump turn on and off, follow these instructions. Some where near the pressure tank there will be a small box with some wires connected into it. This is called the pressure switch. When the well pump comes on it will make a distinctive "Click". When the well pump goes off it will make another distinctive click. In this case you may need two people. One to draw water and the other to listen for the clicks.

*Variable Speed Well Pumps and Constant Pressure Well Pumps:

Our well water filter FAQs would not be complete without addressing some less common types of pump setups. Most residential wells have conventional pumps and pressure tanks. Every now and then we will talk to someone who has a different type. These people usually know who they are because of the special nature of these pumps. If you have a variable speed pump or a constant pressure pump, please call in and ask for a level #4 tech to help you.

DIFFERENT SOFTENER MODELS FAQs

(8) Q: What is the difference between a "Deluxe" model and a "Standard" model?

A: These Deluxe models handle higher flow rates.

Our standard models are certainly high quality water softeners that can handle strong flow rates. The average home wit 1 or 2 bathrooms averages between 8 GPM to 12 GPM maximum flow. And that would be if everyone was using the water at the same time. A standard water softener from WFOA™ will handle that all day long. Most standard units from other companies max out around 10 GPM. Once you get up to 13 GPM to 15 GPM, you should step up to our Deluxe (Hi Flow) water softeners Especially if you have 3 or more bathrooms. Our Deluxe units can handle up to a whopping 25 GPM. 

PREMIUM Water Softeners and Water Conditioners

Our water filter FAQs would not be complete without these Premium Models. These are in addition to our standard and deluxe models. For example: The Premium Dual Purpose unit softens as well as conditions the water by removing chlorine and other contaminants. It has a separate tank built into it to add Activated Carbon or some other mineral, so that you can backwash both at the same time and save water. You never want to "mix" carbon and softener resin in the same tank like some companies do (there is no way to get the carbon back out to replace it).

You can also put other filtration media in the extra tank instead of activated carbon for other needs. And "thank you" Walter Schaefer in California for asking us to include this information here. And for your excellent idea that California residents should consider putting their outdoor water softener and filter tanks in the ground to guard against earthquake damage. Great Idea!

UV LIGHT FAQs

(9) Q: UV LIGHT Sterilization: How do I know when it is correct to use one?

A: UV lights are normally used to kill harmful bacteria, such as E. coli and coliform bacteria. You cannot use ANY type of UV light when you have measurable amounts of iron, manganese, very hard water, or a number of the other situations. You also cannot use a UV light properly when placed after any back washing filter or water softener. Be very wary of anyone who would tell you that you can.

There are many companies who sell UV lights on everything they sell. It is quite simply a money grab. 90% of all UV Lights we see in private homes are misapplications, and most are useless. We sell them as well. But only when we KNOW that they are correctly used. It is not something to make a mistake about. For more information, please go to this page:

WFOA™ Ultra Violet Light Disinfection

Note: If you are considering a UV light for disinfection. You should be sure to read the entire page at the link above, especially the information listed at the bottom of the page. Which informs you of what is correct and what is not. And remember that it can be dangerous to misapply a UV light on water supplies where harmful bacteria may be present. This is something that you simply must do correctly. Caveat Emptor!

REVERSE OSMOSIS FAQs

(10) Q: How simple is an R.O. unit to install?

I am especially interested in how to tap into the water supply. Is it like a refrigerator tap etc?

A: REVERSE OSMOSIS (R.O.) INSTALLATION TIPS:

It is fairly simple. You have a small attachment that you place on the cold water pipe under the sink. You also need a small hole in the sink for the additional faucet. A small 1/2" hole is all you need. Stainless steel sinks are particularly easy to drill a small 1/2" hole into. Using a drill with a 1/2" drill bit. It takes about 30 seconds to do. You can even use the sprayer hole if you don't normally use the sprayer. If you have a soap dispenser hole, or a hole for a hot water appliance you don't use. That is fine too. Your local hardware store sells a "drill bit" for your household power drill for about $5 that will easily drill the hole for you.

Then there is a little thing called a drain saddle that you attach to the drain under the sink to carry the waste water away... that's about it. Average install time is approx. 30 minutes, 20 minutes if you know what you are doing. 45-60 minutes if your wife is helping...

A Friendly Water Tech Will Help

We also want you to realize that an installation helper (or tech) will be there to help on the phone if you need it. We will even pay for the call... And our support staff is US based.

If you want to run the water to the fridge (which is usually the next question), just put a "T" in the product water line (the one that brings clean water up to the faucet) and run it to the back of the fridge. Be sure NOT to use an existing copper line, unless absolutely necessary. And a "3/8" water line seems to be best. "1/4" water lines sometimes are too small for certain icemakers and water dispensers.

(11) Q: I just installed a full house backwashing carbon tank and I noticed that the installer had some extra carbon left over. Is that normal?

A: Yes, we sometimes send you more media than you need no matter what type of tank it is. Just be careful that you don't over fill the tank (if you are doing it yourself). Most units require 12-15 inches of "free space" or "air space" in the top of the tank when you assemble it. And you can keep any extra carbon left over for the future. It may save you a little money down the road. We think our customers enjoy getting a little extra as opposed to not getting enough.

INSTALLERS FAQs

(12) Q: How does a person sign up to become one of your installers in a given town or city?

A: If you are an experienced water treatment equipment installer and understand that customer satisfaction is our number one goal. We would be delighted to speak with you and possibly put you on our list of installers. Simply click on the Plumber Handyman link on the home page and provide us with your name, address, phone and e-mail address. A representative will contact you promptly. Or you may call us at the toll free number below.

HOT WATER HEATER FAQs

(13) Q: Sulfur: Should I remove the anode in my hot water heater?

A: NO! A lot of uneducated plumbers and handymen spread this very marginal advice. Removing the anode rod from your hot water heater is virtually never a good idea. They are there for a reason. And that is to protect your hot water heater. Removing it will not only void the warranty of your hot water heater but will almost certainly shorten the life of the tank by many years.

Unfortunately many in home service technicians have found this to be a quick fix for a customer who is still getting odor. This is only a band aide approach. And the odor returns in a short time. If the water has an odor on the hot water side only, then you likely have a manganese issue. And that type of water needs to be treated. And the manganese needs to be removed, not the anode rod. So if you fix the water issue, the rod is not an issue. And the hot water will last longer. And be far more efficient.

WATER SOFTENER FAQs

(14) Q: How does a water softener work?

A: A water softener works by replacing the hardness in your water with either sodium chloride, Normal Salt. Or potassium chloride, a water softener salt substitute that is environmentally friendly. There are two basic types of softeners which are demand and timer models. A demand model recycles depending on how much water you use. A timer model recycles at a specified time. For more water softener information feel free to give us a call.

SALT FREE Water Softener FAQs

(15) Q: Do you have salt free water softeners?

A: All of our water softeners can be used as either a sodium salt using water softener, or a potassium water softener. Some people say that potassium is a salt free system even though potassium is actually a salt as well. It is really up to you choose the right water softener for your family. If you are going to install a water softener we recommend you start at our water softener home page: Water Softeners-Conditioners. Do not believe slick operators who say they have magnets, or descalers, or any other nonsense like that. If you have truly hard water, NONE of those things will make it soft. If those things worked, we would sell them.

FREE WATER TEST FAQs

(16) Q: How do I get my water tested? Is there anyone who does their water testing for free?

A: YES! There are several ways to get your water properly tested for basic water problems for FREE! We also have paid testing for the complicated stuff.

This is a popular water filter FAQs question. First you need to know which type of water you have. Whether you have a Private Well, just for your personal home, which we call Well Water. Or if you are on some sort of public or municipal water supply which we call "City Water". Both methods are explained below. As well as when testing is actually needed. And how to get testing done for free.

Private Well Water Test FAQs

The best thing to do is get your water "independently" tested. Many swimming pool supply stores do testing for free. And they are normally pretty accurate. Just ask them to test it just like they would if you were considering buying a swimming pool or hot tub. DO NOT let the sample sit all day or overnight before testing. pH is a very important part of testing and pH can actually change if it sits too long. Draw the sample and then get it tested as quickly as possible. If all else fails, you can send us a sample and we will test it for FREE. Just give one of our techs a call and they will tell you how to send us a sample.

A good way to get testing is to just look under "laboratories" in your area. Be sure to call several to compare prices, as labs vary greatly in their pricing. You can usually find one that will check your iron, pH, hardness and TDS quite inexpensively. Sometimes for just a few dollars more they will give you a very wide range of tests and we understand what it all means as a rule. If all you want to do is treat for iron, then hardness and TDS are not essential. Tell us what is in the water and we will get it right every time. Remember, if you use a lab, pH can change if you let the sample sit for very long. If using a lab, ask them to test the pH right away, even if it takes them a while to test the other things.

We also have paid testing for the complicated stuff. We can test for virtually anything. And at reasonable prices.

MORE WATER TESTING FAQs

CAUTION: Never let someone who sells water equipment test your water. Especially the ones that come into your home. Always try to get it tested independently by someone that does not sell water equipment. You can see our iron and sulfur filters (they are chemical free) here:

WFOA™ Terminox® Iron, Sulfur Filter.

Also keep in mind that if you can not find a local lab to help, we can test it free of charge for you. If you are on a private well. We will also need to know your flow rate. Look at #7 above on this FAQS page for easy instructions on determining your flow rate. And you should read Item #17 below on this FAQS page as well. Which addresses iron bacteria and organic issues.

Public City Water Filter FAQs

Normally on a city water supply, the common things to test for are hardness and chlorine. Most city water supplies have no pH issues even though you see them on occasion. For example, testing in Kansas City, Missouri can show as high as 10 on the pH scale. Which is far beyond what the EPA recommends for drinking water.

On the other hand, we have seen low pH acidic water in places like Bethel Park, PA. Acidic water is usually not a good idea at all. But normally hardness and chlorine are the main things to test for. Hardness is usually the easiest thing to figure out. Just call the phone number on your water bill and ask them what is the "Hardest" the water gets each year. They will tell you. Having in-home sales companies coming in to "Test" your water is usually just a sales ploy. And that person already knows what your hardness level is. They could tell you right over the phone if they wanted to. But they won"t. The salesman just wants to get INSIDE your home for the big sale.

Chlorine in City Water

As far as chlorine goes. There are several things to know. First, ask the water provider (The city water department) if they use chlorine, or "chloramines". And if they say chlorine then ask them if they add "Ammonia" to the water. Also, they will not be able to tell you accurately what the chlorine levels are in your home. Because that can vary by the distance your home is from the treatment plant. But you can use a swimming pool tester for this.

Or you can take a fresh sample immediately down to the pool supply store for testing. You must take it right down as it can start dissipating over time. Chloramines are MUCH stronger than chlorine. For example, if you are using reverse osmosis for your drinking water, you might want a 4 stage for chlorine and a 5 stage for chloramines. When in doubt just use the 5 stage. Especially if you can smell chlorine in your tap water.

One good way to determine if you need to test for chlorine or chloramines, is to do a simple drinking glass test. Run unfiltered and un-softened water at the kitchen sink for 5 minutes with the water faucet fully open. Then take a "Glass" drinking glass or container and fill it half full. Smell the water IMMEDIATELY. Stick your nose right down into the glass. If you can smell a chlorine or bleach type smell (Chemical smell), then you obviously have a lot of chemical in the water. If you can't smell anything at all, then testing for chlorine is probably not necessary. But it never hurts to test.

Chlorine Levels Testing Chart

If you do test the water (Remember to let it run for five minutes before drawing the sample), remember these guidelines:

O to 0.5 ppm= Optional to treat

.5 to 1.0 ppm= Recommended to treat

1.0 to 1.5 ppm= Treatment STRONGLY recommended

1.5 ppm or higher= Essential to treat

1.5 ppm or higher= Treat the whole house, not just the drinking water.

Keep in mind that 1.5 PPM is for swimming pool levels of chlorine. You would never take a glass and dip it into a pool and then drink it would you? Would you take a bath in a swimming pool? Probably not! If your water softener is at a swimming pool level of chlorine or chloramines, it will damage the softener components over time.

Please don't hesitate to give us a quick call for a discussion of your situation. Keep in mind our technicians are not allowed to ask you to buy anything or pressure you in ANY way. They just answer your questions and give you great advice. We are the online leader for water treatment worldwide. We set the standard for all others to follow. Call 800-684-0979 Toll Free. Phones answered 24 Hours a day.

IRON BACTERIA and ORGANICS FAQs

(17) Q: How do I do the Iron Bacteria and Organics Inspections?

A: Another essential thing you should do for a private well. Once you have tested your well water and checked your flow rate on a private well, you should also do the following.

When treating problem well water, it is always good to check for organic issues (Things living or growing in the water). And if you have ANY iron in the water at all it, is good to do a visual inspection for iron bacteria. Organics and iron bacteria can make many well water filters, including backwashing filters, fail over time. It's really easy to do these visual inspections. Each should just take a minute or so of your time.

Visual Organics Check

It takes just a few moments. Find instructions here:

Organics_Check

Visual Iron Bacteria Check

This is something you can do in about 30 seconds. You can find instructions here:

Iron_Bacteria_Check

Then give us a quick call for the proper solution. In most cases we can solve your problem inexpensively, and without air injectors or chemicals. Virtually everything we sell is made from scratch. For exactly the kind of water you have. And made right here in the good old USA.  And remember, you should NEVER use a water softener as an iron filter.

CHEMICAL FEED PUMP and Water Filter FAQs

(18) Q: Where do you install the chemical feeder pumps that inject chlorine for sulfur smells or soda ash to raise your pH?

A: Do you know where your pressure tank is? It is usually the first thing that the water goes through after the well pump. We normally put an injector in the line right before the pressure tank. Then we hook up the electric line to the pressure switch that is usually on that tank or near it. So that it turns our pump on, when your well pump comes on. If you don't have a pressure tank, or if you want the pump installed at a different place. Other than before your pressure tank. You will need to add a flow switch. Then you can place the chemical feed pump wherever you like.

If you have a 220v well pump you need a 220v chem feed pump. And if you have a 110v well pump you need a 110v chem feed pump.

If you use a flow switch then you need the 110v pump.

In order to tell whether you have a 110v or 220v well pump. Simply look at the switch on your breaker box that runs power to the well pump. If it is a single switch, it is a 110v. If it is a double switch, it is a 220v.

110 V and 220 V breaker box example for sizing chemical feeder systems.

Breaker Box Image For 110v and 220v Well Pump

We hope this information helps you. Please feel free to contact us by phone at any time if you have any other questions not answered on this FAQs page. The call is free.

IRON WATER FILTER FAQs

(19) Q: We noticed you changed your best line of iron filters from Pyrolox Iron Filters to Terminox™ Iron, Sulfur and Manganese Filters. Why is that?

A: Pyrolox is a bit older technology. As the innovators online of Pyrolox, we should know. Our Pyrolox filters are now featured on this page:

Pyrolox_filters

You can find our Superior Terminox® I.S.M. Filters here:

Terminox® Iron_Filters

Pyrolox used to be our main technology for iron, sulfur and manganese treatment until we developed something even better. The Terminox® Filters are far superior to Pyrolox, or the many other iron filters we sell. The fact is we were the FIRST company to offer Pyrolox on the internet as its main iron filter technology and worldwide. And while other companies raced to copy it and keep up with it. We were improving that technology.

The result, after many years of testing and field evaluations. Was the Terminox® Iron, Sulfur and Manganese Filter. It is far superior to Pyrolox, Birm, Greensand or any other current technology. And there is no salt, chemicals, mineral replacements or maintenance.

So if you want a Pyrolox unit. We are the originators and still offer it. And we are better at sizing a Pyrolox properly than anyone else... But if you want the very best filter available. You might want to consider the highly effective chemical free, salt free and maintenance free Terminox® Filter.

MIRACLES and MAGNETS FAQs

(20) Q: Do magnetic water softeners work?

A: Absolutely not! We have never found a magnet, or alloy, or electronic coil of any kind that can pass any hardness test at all! Buyers beware of companies offering such gadgets and miracles. If they worked you could find them here as well. We would sell them. Be especially wary of these companies who put carbon in their tanks. That is your first sign they are selling dreams and hocus pocus. For more information about magnets and other gimmicks click HERE for additional FAQs.

Water Filter FAQs about Manufacturers

(21) Q:Who makes your equipment?

A: We manufacture most of our equipment from scratch right here in the good old USA. And we use only the VERY BEST Premium Quality American Made national name brand components on all equipment that we sell. The same people that make equipment components for most other PREMIUM brand companies, make them for us as well. Most of our products are NSF certified.

DRINKING SOFT WATER FAQs

(22) Q: Can I drink the water from my softener?

A: NO! You should virtually NEVER drink the water from a water softener! If the water  has high hardness levels. Then once it goes through the water softener it will be high in sodium. If it is not high in hardness then you did not need a water softener to begin with. Don't drink water that comes out of a water softener. Even if it should be below the MCL for safe drinking water most people do not want unnecessary amounts of sodium in their drinking water. You don't have to take our word for it either.

Just take a sample of any water from a water softener that has high hardness going to it and take it to a lab to test for sodium and salt. The results will speak for themselves. To read more click here: Drinking Soft Water. If you have a salesman in your home telling you it is ok to drink the water from a water softener. And he is not telling you to either drink bottled water or use reverse osmosis as a drinking filter. It may be time to ask him to leave. Reverse Osmosis Drinking Systems water filters.

FAQS for OUTSIDE INSTALLS

(23) Q: What if I need to install my unit outside?

A: For more information on outdoor installations, visit this page: Outdoor Systems.

We hope that this information on water filter FAQs on home water filtration systems help you.

Thank you!

Questions? Call 800-684-0979 for assistance.

E-mail: info@waterfiltersofamerica.com

Also See: Compare Brands for more advice, information and comparisons. Please note: Some assembly is required on most purchases. Any other questions you want us to add to our Water Filter FAQs? Just send us an email with Water Filter FAQs in the subject line. We add water filter FAQS to this page on a regular basis.

Information on well water chlorination FAQs:

The difference between feeding chlorine directly into the well as opposed to using a storage tank outside the well for chlorine injection. Click on the link below for info, advice and prices on different systems. Also covers a cheap method of "SULFUR ONLY" removal:

Chemical Feed, Chlorine Injection FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) on Home Water Filtration Systems

What is considered hard water? How many grains per gallon or whatever?

FAQS Article: Hardness Chart

FAQs Article: Salmonella in Water (New!)

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