Terminox Filters vrs Katalox Light filters are a comparison of two types of technology. While both are often used to remove iron and manganese. Katalox light will almost certainly need additional equipment to function at the residential level. The following page is designed to separate proper well water filter technology from the Miracles and Myths.
Terminox Filters for Well Water
Terminox filters for well water removes iron, sulfur, manganese, foul tastes and rotten egg smells. Terminox removes strong chemicals, such as chlorine, chlorimines and bleach. And it removes dirt sediment, rust, turbidity and many other types of sediment.
Katalox Light Filters for Well Water.
Only recently have we seen Katalox Light filters introduced in US markets. It seems in this day and age everyone is looking to sell the next "Miracle" filter. First it was magnets and "Nano" technology to replace water softeners. Until people realized it was all a bunch of sales hype. And now we have all sorts of random technologies designed for the quick sale of filter for well water. And often a lifetime of service calls and aggravation. Enter Katalox Light..
Maybe the best way to explain, is to share a recent email. Brendon asked:
We are a little late in finding your company, but wanted to get some information/suggestions for you. We recently purchased a summer cottage that we plan to use mostly in summers. It is a 3 bedroom 1 bath (although possibly may add a 2nd bath, perhaps ½ bath). Attached is the water test results. The main issue we are looking to resolve is the high iron. Although potentially the lower PH may make that difficult. We got some information from a couple of places and thought we had narrowed down the selections, but then came across your website.
Because we are not close to the home, we have not been able to verify the flow rate, which I understand to be critical. I plan to be on site this coming weekend and will verify. Have been told it is between 5 and 6 GPM. We had ruled out the culligan suggestion of a neuatralizer and softener combo.
Currently we were waiting to confirm flow rate to decide between a Katlox light or a Pyrolox system. Leaning more toward this set up: Katalox Filter System with 9" X 48" Tank & Fleck 5600SXT AIO Oxygen Chamber System Digital Control Valve
Saw information about terminox system. Understand without certainty on the flow rate you may not be able to help, but is there anything else I need to know before we confirm the flow rate this weekend to order?
Thank you, Brendan
Here is our response:
Terminox Filter vrs Katalox Light
Hi Brendon,
I am almost not sure where to start. But here goes..
The Culligan suggestion is mind boggling at this point. Plus you could not drink the water. You have already discredited it, so I won’t elaborate.
While we sometimes sell Katalox light for some rare custom applications, we would find it a very bad selection at this point. It is usually too unreliable for most residential applications. We can sell you what you suggest at a very reasonable price, we just could not stand behind it. It’s not a good idea with this application.
Katalox is impregnated with a pH increasing substance to help temporarily raise pH. It is certainly not a “Miracle Mineral”. The problem is that over time it loses its ability to temporarily adjust pH. Because the pH increaser added to the mineral eventually melts into the water. So over time the pH drops dramatically without the knowledge of the homeowner. This will create an almost certain failure in the future, though it will likely work fine at first. And by the time you realize the failure, you will likely have to rebed the unit. And the dealer who sold it will have spent your money long ago (And be ready to make more). We do not coat minerals with any temporary substances at the residential level.
How you could select this 9” filter without a flow rate number is confusing. Be careful! ANY iron filter would require an actual flow rate number. Never ever guess what your flow rate is. It will almost certainly fail over time, but may work for a while. Remember that the flow rate number is not a usage number for when the water is being used at the time. The flow rate number we use is needed as it tells us the MAXIMUM amount of flow that will ever come down that pipe. That number is what determines the backwash rate while the filter cleans itself. That is important. What is the max flow when the unit is cleaning..? Anyone who is selling any backwashing filter, who would not insist on knowing this max flow number before suggesting a filter, is simply “rolling the dice”. And then long term success becomes highly unlikely.
Air injection AIO The dinosaur of water filters.
AIO filters are "air injection oxygenation" filters. Air injection was popular back in the 1950s before oxidizing filters such as Terminox had been invented. Because they do not work by using an oxidizing mineral. The air injection is the oxidizer. The fact that someone is using an oxidizing mineral like Katalox Light, AND then adding air injection, tells you that they EXPECT the oxidizing to fail. The trade off is that you normally need a pH of 8.0 when filtering iron and having the presence of any manganese when using air injection. While your manganese test shows the amount is marginal in this case, it is still a measurable amount.. Once oxidizing filters were invented there was no longer a good reason for air injection to remove iron, manganese, sulfur etc.
Our customers hate air injection as a rule. By its very description it puts thousand of tiny air bubbles in the water. What are all those air bubbles going to do when the water stops running? They are going to RISE. So any tanks (Filters) and other household items with tanks, such as hot water tanks. Are going to build up air in the top every time the water stops moving. Over time these air “Pockets” become HUGE. And at some point you would use a lot of water at once. Also, it will force that big air bubble through your backwashing filters and hot water heater. And anything else that can build up air, including the water lines themselves. This will often make the water appear “Milky”. There is nothing health wise wrong with the water. But most Moms and kids won’t drink it. For some reason most men don’t seem to care much about milky water..
Also, it will often make the hot water faucets really “Spit” hot water out of the faucet because of the air. If you have ever had a kid get hot water spit on them while washing hands. Or if the hot water spits hot water by just turning on the faucet. There was probably an old style air injection system involved. That is what you may have to look forward to.
And while we do sell Fleck control valves. We find they struggle over time with high iron applications. Because the pistons get coated with iron and need to be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis. The in-home sales companies love them because they create expensive service calls. The reason being that you need a special “Piston removal tool” for this task. So the homeowner can’t do it themselves. You can only buy this tool if you are a water treatment dealer! So we stay away from Fleck valves with high iron wells. They are much better in water softener applications. But still can only be serviced by in-home sales companies. Fleck sells to the dealer. The dealer sells to you.
Miracle Solutions
So the bad news is that there are no “Miracle solutions”. We understand if you move on to the path of least resistance.
The good news is that we are being brutally honest, even if it means losing your business. Do a flow rate check before deciding on any equipment. And be somewhat wary of anyone who would sell you anything for a private well without this requirement.
You should also get a cheap liquid pH tester from the local swimming pool/hot tub supply store (Most are open on Sundays). They cost under $10. And then test "on site" after running the water until the pump comes on. Or run a quick sample up to the hot tub/pool store, and ask them to check the pH real quick for you. NEVER use ANY sort of test "Strip" when testing well water.
Also, you want to test the water from the well. Not the water that has been sitting in the pressure tank. Most water dealers and labs don’t realize that a sample sitting in a container can have the pH start dropping within 30 minutes or so. Most labs leave samples sitting for days. Any time you have pH issues it is best to test on site. Or take it someplace close who will test the pH right away. No test "strips"..
Also, I see no indication that you have done the visual inspection for organics and iron bacteria. It is item #17 on this page:
If you did happen to have iron bacteria or organics, it would probably make the whole pH conversation moot. Thus saving a great deal of time, money and discussion. You can treat iron bacteria and organics with the same piece of equipment that you raise the pH with usually. And it is a fairly inexpensive piece of equipment as well.
This is the hard fast rule:
Always start at your water quality and flow rate. Then move FORWARD to the correct piece of equipment. Never start at random pieces of equipment or filters, and then work your way BACKWARDS to the water quality and flow. That's how huge mistakes are made. And how things can get confused by sales pitches and people who are not very good at this stuff. Don’t ever fall in love with a filter. Fall in love with the CORRECT application. You are likely going to live with this decision for many years. Make sure it is the right decision. If you do decide on buying from us. We will be there for all those years with free expert US Based phone support for a lifetime.
